Wednesday, December 18, 2019

Unexpected Portugal Part I


Portugal isn’t a place that has necessarily been high on our priority list of places to travel. I’m still not sure what turned us on to planning this trip but if you or someone you know are thinking about a trip to that part of world, I can't encourage it enough! Every city exceeded any and all the expectations that we didn’t have and served loads of old world charm.


We flew into Lisbon (probably the most beautiful city to fly into), grabbed a baguette and Pastel de nata (because YUM) to kick off our visit, and then got on the train to head to Porto. The train ride was so comfortable and easy, it made us wish we were going to continue our trip by train....next time. 

PORTO

Our arrival into Bento Station gave us an unexpected welcome. The station walls are lined with azulejos (Portuguese/Spanish tile art that are used to create large depictions of historical events). It was as if the city was saying “Welcome to Portugal!”


Azulejos showing historical events in Portuguese history
Our itinerary for Porto consisted of...well, we didn’t really have one. For us, it felt like one of those places where you can let the streets take you around the city and stopping whenever we saw something that looked delicious or culturally interesting. Strolling the tiny pedestrian lanes, there was no shortage of souvenir shops filled with locally made products, restaurants, Port tasting rooms, churches, parks, or bakeries. 



Apartments along the riverside
 

Our second of 2 days in Porto, we walked to the south side of the river to explore the Vila Nova de Gaia neighborhood. Public transport was an option, but we thought that it would be more scenic and give more photo opportunities is we went by food.



View of Porto after walking across the bridge

This view <3



A rare photo of the both of us that isn't a selfie. If a couple asks for us to take their photo, I'll ask for one too
This neighborhood is where most of the wineries are that make local Port. So naturally, we had to check it out, do as the locals do (probably mostly tourists) and try some! We visited the following 2 for a quick taste into the world of port:

Calem Winery

Just a wee tasting

Vasques De Carvalho
Aside from a couple from Seattle (in the background behind our wine glasses), we had it pretty much to ourselves. Amazing hospitality!



NAZARÉ


Traditional fishing boats on display
Nazaré is a small fishing town on the coast of Portugal that still holds many traditions and seems to be supported mostly by the tourism/restaurant industry. The women still walk around in their traditional petticoat skirts and hang out their fish to dry on wood racks that line the beach promenade. The town itself doesn’t offer many sights nor museums, but you don’t come here for that. You come here for fresh seafood, waves (whether spectating the surfers from the beach or getting in on the action), or to, as Rick Steves would say, "see how low you can get your heart rate." 

Pretty sure that man on the left with the leather skin wants to be in all the tourists' pictures
 



SITÍO (hill top town over looking Nazaré; in the background of the picture above) 

View of Sitío from the beach in Nazaré
We spent our second day up on the hill that dominates the town to the north. A handy, steep, and quick funicular takes you to the top of the hill that places you into a town that offers commanding views of Nazaré below and a no shortage of souvenir shopping opportunities. 

This is the beach where the surfers come to surf the waves
At the tip of the hill sits a lighthouse that overlooks the beaches below. This beach to the north is where surfers from all over the world come to surf some of the biggest waves in the world. The combination of the sea floor topography and the wind patterns here are the perfect recipe for monstrous waves that only the bravest souls dare to conquer. YouTube “Nazare waves” for a look at what I’m referring to. It wasn’t the season for these waves so unfortunately no photos from me. 

Squids! Yummm-o


View of Nazaré from the lighthouse in Sitío 
  

SAGRES - The Algarve Coast


The best equivalent destination that I can compare this area of Portugal to, is probably Hawaii. We drove around intentionally aimless from view point to beach to view point. It seems as though all the people we encountered in had spent the entire day at the beach; sun kissed faces and sea salt filled hair. 





The Algarve coast has 3 main towns: Sagres, Lagos and Salema. Our accommodations were in Sagres and what what was initially a little underwhelming ended up being the oasis we were looking for. We did venture into Lagos and it was...a little overwhelmIng. There were, what felt like, 500% more people, restaurants and in-your-face souvenir shops. There was still lots of charm and beautiful architecture to enjoy once you walked a street or two off the main pathways. With the 3 towns so close together, we stopped in Salema for an evening picnic dinner to enjoy the sunset by the beach. Should we return to Portugal, we'll be staying in Salema.



Church in a fort just down the road from Sagres 

Garden oasis at the laundry mat
Beautiful pottery stores along the coast


After a few days in a slice of paradise, we made our way back up north for our last stop, Lisbon. I had too much to share about that beautiful city, so I made our Portugal post 2 parts.